Posted in Hear it from Us, on Friday, June 04, 2010
Tags: Bario, Sarawak, Travel, Holiday

By: Philomena Susceela (Engineering & Maintenance Division)

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Before boarding to Bario

You may be wondering why I chose to go to Bario. Guess, it is all because of our ex Boss, CEO, Dato Seri Idris Jala, (now Minister in the Prime Minister’s Department). He comes from Bario. He is a simple and caring person.  Are you curious to know more about Bario and its people?

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View from the aircraft

I took a  flight  from Miri to Bario on MAS Wings.  The flight is an  adventure itself,  viewing from the plane.  Bario was situated between the  forested ridges of Tamu Abu mountains and then drop down streams, paddy fields,  farms, buffalos, secondary and remote primary forest near Indonesian border.  I feel so excited looking down the valley, something so unique as the plane prepares for landing. My nose was pressed against the window shield. The landing strip is about 1500m long runaway. As we landed, we walk into a mall terminal building, seems to be one of the centers of the Highland life with small café serving drinks food. It is alive like beehives, friends and families sharing news, Home Stay owners come to pick up and deliver their guests. The warmth of the Kelabits reception and extraordinary beautiful smell of fresh forest astounded me. I fell in love with Bario on my very first trip. I been here for the third time and always look forward to come again.

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Airport terminal - Bario

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Bariew lodge

If you love tradition indigenous foods, beautiful Highlands’s forest and meeting new friends in remarkable places, then Welcome to Bario and the Kelabit Highlands.

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Bario Asal - Longhouse

Bario - the Kelabit Highlands are the cultural homeland of   warm Kelabit people. The cultural heritage of the Kelabits is genuinely, embracing intact highland catchments areas, hundreds of small family owned organic Bario rice farms and famous Bario pineapple.

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Bario hill

The first Food Festival was opened in 2006 by TYT His Excellency the Governor of Sarawak and it has been welcoming visitors from over seas all over the world. It is managed by the Kaum Ibu Highlands women’s group with generous support from the Highlands JKK, Sarawak Tourism Board, The  State Government, Rela, Longhouse youth groups, Bario Nature guide counsel, Highlanders sports group and many private individual and business.

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Clean water

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Crossing the river

The Bario Kelabit Highland Food and Cultural Festival celebrates in great food, forest, farming & cultural heritage of the beautiful Kelabit Highlands which in Heart of Borneo – The Land of a Thousand Handshakes. This festive will be held in June 30-July 4, 2010.  The Bario Kelabit Highland Food and Cultural Festival will take place with a programmed of Highlands’s games and followed by the Food festival itself. This starts with a local trade day and builds up to the main festival Day with festival Food, Festival stall, Festival feast and Cultural Awards ceremony for at least 400 guests.

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Cultural Show

Bario is one the many different groups famous for its extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, await discovery by visitors. Malaysia’s largest and last surviving traditionally farmed and forested highland – The Sungai Dappur Valley. Megalithic, Neolithic and modern stone monuments such as  dolmens, standing stones, cairns, burial sites and former longhouse sites, some of Sarawak’s iconic wildlife species, gibbons, orchids, Rafflesia plants,  Rhinoceros Hornbills,  Different types plants and flowers.

In the Highlands, the cafes will be happy to serve you some of the tradition dishes if you ask and the Kelabits Nature Guides will be able to guide you around the rice farms and nearby forests. The village is full of wild ginger, wild mango teens, matakuching, wild durians, wild, nuts, Terap (small like jackfruit), palm shoots, fern shoots etc. At Pa'Ukat, you visit Naomi's organic garden.

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Halfway home - Ruma Bungan Radu

If you are feeling more adventurous, get a  tour guide  or home stay to arrange for few days trekking in beautiful Pa Umor, Pa Pamada,  Pa Ukat to  Pa Longan, one of the most remote Highland villages and famous for its Jungle Supermarkets etc. If this sounds a bit too much to handle, there a short excursions to Pa Ramapuh longhouse offers walks across scenic paddy fields to streams at the foot of Tamu Abu range, Arur Dalan and Pa Tik longhouses are situated at the end of a beautiful valley, easily reached on the foot,  Bari Asal, oldest longhouses in Highlands of traditional hearth or tetal. Kampong Baru offers an attractive walk through paya forest to a small highlands sheep farm and Pa Umor and Pa Ukat share a landscape rich in rivers, rice farms and footpaths. And you can go for boat rides to Pa Mada and Pa Dali.

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Getting warm by fire place

Recommendation a visit to Kelabit Highlands in Sarawak, East Malaysia is a delightful experience hard to forget. Fresh air, green jungles, beautiful mountains and misty mornings.

Spoken Languages : Kelabit, English and Malay.

How to get to Bario/ Contact/Lodge/Home stay

There best way to get there is plane from Miri airport operates twice a day. You can checked   at   www.maswings.com.my

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Local homemade goods for sale

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Going to Pa'Dali

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Posing near Pa'Dali

Best Adventurous way from Miri by Four Wheeler - 11 hours and the roads are like roller coaster!!

Contact: Reddish +60148923431
bariewlodge@yahoo.com
You can contact Reddish for other Home stays at Pa’mada, Pa’Dali, Pa ramudu etc.

Contact:  Gerawat Gala
gemslodge@yahoo.com

Halfway Home

1) Ruma Bungan and /Pa’Ukat Longhouse

Paul Martin    -  + 60135788040,
Bungan Radu -  + 60135648966

2) Robert House    - +6 0138330585
3) Bujang Long     - + 6 0194844169

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Posted in Hear it from Us, on Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Tags: Career, Bario, E&M Employees

By: Philomena Susceela (Engineering & Maintenance Division)

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Philomena Susceela

I have been in the airline for the past 36 years ever since 15 October 1974. I joined as cabin cleaner in Engg Dept ASU to annoy my father, who refused to let me go for my nursing studies in London. He wanted me to look after my little brother! Mom was very encouraging, but as usual, the man wins!

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Philomena as a technical staff 

My neighbor was working with MAS, he told me that MAS was recruiting aircraft cleaners. Therefore, I went and got the job! It was a shift work, It was not my choice of work but  my father anger’s was a sweet SIGHT to see.  However, in the end, I have to thank my father for what I am today.

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Supervision by Mr. Siva

Coming into Technical line of work was the idea of  En. Nasir Abdollah, AGM of Heavy Maintenance, (Senior Quality Assurance Manager then) is the first person who wanted us (Non Technical) to be Approval Holders.  En Alamin (NDT Supt) ensures  mission accomplished. Yes,   it is a requirement for technical work and only way to enhance, to learn, practice and improve. in our career .Those days we used to have   improvement courses by Training Dept HR. This helps to build confidence, self-improvement and committed to the self and the company.

I am very bless to be working in MAS, getting the education that the MAS/other outside Agency  through MAS. These trainings have strengthened my foundation in my career.

 1.  Nov 2008 - Todate - NDT SNR Officer/Inspector (Workshop- NDT)
 2.  Oct 2004 - Nov 2008 - NDT SNR Officer, QA Dept, MAS
 3.  Jul 2001 - Sept 2004 - NDT Admin Ofiicer, QA Dept, MAS
 4.  Jan 2001 - Jul 2001 - Archives & Records Officer, QA Dept, MAS
 5.  Mar1996 - Dec 2001 - Modifications Officer,   Tech Svcs Dept, MAS
 6.  May 1992 - Feb 1996 - Library Clerk (R&D), R & D Sect, HR MAS,
 7.  May 1992 - Library Clerk, Corp Trg Sect, HR, MAS
 8.  May 1992 - Clerk Corporate Training, Corp Trg Sect, HR, MAS
 9.  May 1992 - HR Clerk,  Personnel Dept, MAS
10. Apr 1981- Apr 1992 - Library Assistant, Personnel Dept, MAS
11. Oct 1974 - Mar 1981 - A/craft Interior Cleaner, Engg ASU, MAS

Working  for the Airline is exciting, many changes took place. Seeing the airline growing  from babe  to present, maturing  under many Chairman’s,  MD's  and the staff have improve a lot  with new ideas  to better the industry. Of course, we too went  though bad times but we always spring back.  Hello! We need a bad situation to get better. Challenges never seems to cease. We are learning something new everyday.

I always like changes in any situation because it gives me a chance to learn and better myself in any situation.

Working for MAS, it is simply the best. MAS gave me a good education and a good career. I was involved in giving career talk for visiting schools while I was in HR. We trained in many fields in HR so that we are able handle anything if there is shortage of work force. I went from being an aircraft cleaner to a Senior NDT Officer/ Inspector.

I am   thankful to all my colleagues,  bosses, friends and love ones who supported and helped me   in many ways and carried me forward for what I am today. God has been good to me; there is a reason for me to be here like anyone else. I love working for MAS. Everyone that comes into my life is a blessing whether it is good or bad.  Everyone is good in his or her own ways and to me they all got beautiful hearts.

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Diving squad

A chance to work with other Community Social work ,  I also got  my training as First Aider, sports massage  from the National Sports Doctor in Bangi. As First Aider, I was involved in disaster works.  As SAT team member in EMC in MAS, I’m   on standby 24 hours for any assistance is  needed during any emergency.  I am also a volunteer with NGO with Yayasan Salam. I had an opportunity to assist in Aceh   for the Tsunami – good experience, in bad situation, almost was killed during gunshot between rebels and soldiers during delivery of food and medical goods,  went through an experience of earth tremor (7.4) and got a nickname Mama Philo for making sure our  team is taken care of. 

During the Segamat floods, we cooked and delivered food by boat. We also looked after the stranded passengers of Bombay floods at Blue Wave hotel. I went through many more experiences.

I had so many adventures through MAS. It is good thing that my family supported me from the beginning in any thing knowing my passion for helping others.  My husband and my sons, Ganesan, Jevak (both of  them attached to MAS Engineering). My other son, Shasi is with Valiramgroup in KLIA and my daughter in law, Ilavarasi (Ticketing office - KLIA) is my strongest supporter.

My bosses and colleagues from Workshop NDT give me fullest support.  They encourage me in every way. I am lucky to have good team work and great support.  You see, "I am MAS and MAS is me.".

I could have achieved my ambition being a good nurse in London, but in MAS, I had the best of all kinds. Most of all, a chance to travel, to meet people and  learning experiences from my holidays.

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In Bario, harvesting the padi fields

I love mother nature.  I have been to Orang Asli in Camerons, Sabah,   Kuching Sarawak Bario, New Zealand, Port Arlington – Melbourne, Philippine, India  and  more towards country side etc. I always wanted to experience the life of the tribes. My favourite place is Bario where I learned many things. While in Bario, I live the farmer’s life. In Paukat, I walked five kilometers to the farm to harvest the padi. My shoulders ache carrying few kilos of fruits, but looking at tiny women carrying 5 gantang of rice, with amazing strength. I could not help but simply admire them.  I went jungle trekking, canoeing, fishing but not for hunting. I will not be able to eat if I see the kill! 
 
I plan to go for a holiday  to see the whole of Malaysia. There are  many more places to see and many more things to learn...

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Posted in And Others Told Us, on Thursday, October 08, 2009
Tags: Sarawak, Bario

By: Tham Kok Hui (Guest Blogger)

This article by Tham Kok Hui was extracted from http://rkhtham.blogspot.com/

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My name is Tham Kok Hui and I am a student of University Technology Malaysia. Here I would like to share with you an eye opening experience that I had on my semester break in one of my university’s programmmes- Lestari Bario, which was made possible by the kind support of my favourite airline MAS.

Lestari Bario is a community project organized by the Students’ Representatives of Residential College Tun Dr Ismail of Universiti Teknologi Malaysia (UTM) at Bario, Sarawak from 16 to 19 June 2009. Under UTM’s new Vice Chancellor’s leadership, all community programs have been made mandatory to impart technological impact on the society, and Bario is the right candidate that fulfills the criteria. Remotely located in the rainforest, Bario is privileged with unspoiled nature, and enjoys cool and refreshing weather all year long. Bario has been well known as a producer of premium quality rice known as ‘Beras Bario’ and other highland products.

The showcase of the program is to introduce and promote the employment of the ‘Effective Microorganisms’ or popularly known as ‘EM’ in agriculture sector in Bario. Through biotechnology, EM has been widely used to enhance agricultural productivity, to minimize infestation of pests, to convert organic wastes to premium grade biofertilizer, and to overcome malodours and the leacheate problems in landfills.

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The preparation for this program took approximately 4 months. The week prior to this program, we went back to our college to carry out our final preparation for the trip. There were a lot of things to do during the course of the week, such as getting the flight tickets and finalizing the documents, packing the stuff and some of the members were busy practicing Johore’s traditional dance- the Tarian Zapin that they planned to present to the folks in Bario on the Cultural Night at the long house.

Everything went well and smoothly during the final week of preparation. I would like to take this opportunity to extend my gratitude towards Ms. Wan Tipah Wan Yaacob from MAS Communication Division as she had been a great help to us in preparing for this trip.

Our journey started on the 15th of June 2009. We took the 12:30 pm flight from Senai to Kuching. We departed from UTM at 10:20 am to the Senai International Airport; we decided to leave early so that we would have ample time to check-in our luggage at the airport.

Just according to plan, the traffic was fine and we reached the airport at 10:45 pm.

Transferring hundreds of kilograms of stuff into Bario was one of the challenges for this program as goods can only be transported into Bario by a tiny 19-seater plane that travels in and out from Bario twice a day, weather permitting.

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There were a lot of things that we brought over to Bario for the folks there, there were clothes, school books, stationeries, apparatus needed for the ‘EM’ showcase and etc. We took 12 trolleys to mobilize our stuff in the Senai International Airport. The boxes and luggage shown in this photo were just the tip of the iceberg. We are grateful that MAS had granted us extra luggage weight allowance or we would have had to leave behind half of the things at the airport.

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Group photo taken at the Senai Airport

At the MAS counter, we were informed that our flight would be delayed for about an hour due to a minor defect on the plane. Although all of us had to spend another hour waiting at the airport but the anticipation was still running high in everyone of us. 

Why so? As for me, this was my very first time flying with MAS, one of the best commercial flight services in the world. Moreover, this trip was my first time flying to Sarawak. I was overjoyed when I got to know that MAS agreed to sponsor us the flight tickets to Bario. I have heard so much good comments from my friends and family about the services provided by MAS for both of their domestic and international flight services.

I had always been looking forward to experience it myself. Besides that, I was very much excited about this trip as I had always wanted to step foot into the land of a thousand handshakes (which is Bario) and to experience the locals’ unique culture and lifestyle.

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Our wait for the flight to Kuching ended in about one and a half hour. We did not really feel the hours because we were chatting and moving around the departure hall while waiting to be called for boarding. I noticed that we caught a lot of attention at every airport that we had been to because we were moving in a big group and all of us had the blue MAS cap on our head. We like the cap very much and once more I would like to thank MAS for it. I am sure the people were wondering what this big group of UTM students were up to.

The time for us to board the aircraft finally arrived and everyone was extremely excited. We walked through the boarding gate and the aerobridge and finally we were at the entrance of the aircraft. There were smartly dressed cabin crews with their friendly smile standing at the doorstep to welcome us on board. The cabin crew was extremely friendly as they acknowledged each and every one of us.

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The colours of the seats in a MAS aircraft were absolutely unique and have caught much of my attention. The combination of the colours i.e. blue, red, orange and green has indeed given me the cheerful impression towards the flight and eliminates the dullness and boring interior of most airlines.

After all the passengers settled down and the safety briefing by the cabin crews were done, the aircraft took off. I was super anxious when the plane took off as I do not travel very often.

Lunch was served after the take off.

Nasi Goreng with fish or Spaghetti with chicken, sir?

I chose spaghetti and a lunch set was handed over to me. The food was nicely placed in a big lunch box and it was quite a complete set of lunch as it has the main course which is my spaghetti with chicken and also some broccoli in it, besides that, there were fruits, mango juice and a green cookie which looked like a soap that tasted surprisingly good. I enjoyed my lunch very much.

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Spaghetti with chicken…. Bon Appetite!

After an hour, our flight arrived at the Kuching International Airport. It was only 3.30 pm which means that we had another hour before the next flight to Miri. During that hour we had a simple meal that was prepared by one of our members’ parents who came all the way from Simunjan. Later on, I heard that it took about 3 hours for them to get to the airport. This simple gesture touched me a lot and this just goes on to prove that Malaysian Hospitality is indeed a reality.
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Kuching International Airport’s arrival hall

After about an hour, we went back on board and headed to Miri. On this flight, we were given packets of peanuts to munch on. The flight from Kuching to Miri was quite quick. The weather was fine and we had a safe landing in Miri airport at 6pm.

After picking up our luggage, we were sent to a budget hotel in Miri Town by a school bus that we chartered. While unloading all of our stuff from the bus in front of the budget hotel, we realized that our banners for our programme were missing. This was something that we did not expect to happen on our trip. Fortunately, when we contacted the Lost and Found department at Kuching International Airport, the personnel there acted promptly on our report and they went on for a search at the places that we had been to in the airport. Less than half an hour, we had good news from them that they found our banners at boarding gate number 3. We were so lucky that they had found the banners or else it would have been a waste of effort spent on getting the banners done for this program.

Few of the members and I went to the Miri Airport to file a report on our lost items. This procedure was needed to be done so that there would be some arrangement for us to claim our banners at the Miri Airport10pm when we arrived at the airport and there was no flight arriving or departing from the Miri airport, in another word, most of the administration departments were closed. We were worried then, however we were lucky enough to meet with a MAS officer who was about to head home after work. She was very helpful and patient, she assisted us in filling up the forms and did the necessary arrangements for us to ensure us that we would get our banners the next morning. Thus, there is certainly no doubt that people would say MAS serves their customers best. in the morning before we depart from Miri to Bario. It was about

After settling the ‘missing banners’, we went on for supper in the Miri town. Since we were ordering food to eat, I ordered a plate of the famous local delight which is the Mee Kolok and a glass of ‘Teh C Peng’ (ice tea). I regret that I didn’t snap some photos of the food and drink that I mentioned. The ‘Teh C Peng’ was not just nice to drink but it was also nice to see. The drink has got 3 layers of colors that make it quite interesting and special.

It was quite late after the supper; we headed back to our hotel for some rest and prepared for the trip to Bario. The rooms were not comfortable at all but everyone was quite tired after a whole day of traveling so there were just sound of snoring in the rooms rather than complaints.

16th of June 09, Tuesday.

We woke up pretty early that morning and took the chartered bus to the airport for our flight to Bario. All of us seemed to be more excited than we were on the day before although we had quite limited hours of sleep. I think it might be that we were going to sit on the MASWing’s Twin Otter or the fact that we are going to Bario to meet the highlanders that made us so excited.

There were 17 of us from the ‘Lestari Bario’ program that took the MASwings to Bario on that morning. Since it was quite many of us hence we were split into two flights. I was in the first batch and we took the 8.30 am9.30am. flight. The second batch of our team took the following flight which departed at

Taking the MASwings’ Twin Otter was quite an interesting experience.

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MASwings’ Twin Otter

We were all super excited and anxious when we were checking in. Due to the size of the aircraft, every single pound that was brought onto the aircraft was very crucial for the safety of this plane during take off and landing. Therefore everyone was weighted at the MASwings’ counter during the check-in. I noticed that they had grades for each of the passengers in the weighing process. Luckily none of us was overweight and thus all of us passed with an A.

On check-in, passengers were only allowed to have a maximum luggage weight of 9 kg. This was so that they could estimate how much weight that is available in the cargo for them to bring in goods into Bario. However we did not have to worry much on this issue as MAS had already made the necessary arrangement for us to bring in all our things to Bario.

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The first batch of our team boarding the 8.30 am flight

Before the take off, I confessed that I had butterflies in my stomach because I sort of had horrible imaginations that my journey on the Twin Otter was going to be bumpy because the plane is very much lighter and smaller compared to other commercial planes that I had been on before. I have already had the emergency bag ready in hand just incase I was going to hurl. Eventually the 40 minutes journey to Bario that I have spent on the Twin Otter was nothing like what I imagined. The plane was steady from take off till landing. I actually enjoyed the flight very much because the plane was flying quite low, so that during the journey I could look down through the window to enjoy the splendid beauty of Mother Nature from an aerial view. It was quite a fascinating experience looking at the natural formations and patterns created by the trees and rivers as though you were viewing a big piece of ever changing art. It was truly a breathtaking experience.

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Auntie Joy- standing at the far right of this photo

Finally, we made it to Bario! We were welcomed by Mdm. Juana Joy who is the PIC at the Bario airport and she was also our lovely host at Bario who managed our whole trip from lodging to our meals.

She was very excited when she saw us as she had been anticipating us for our program at Bario for a few months. She told us that the folks at Bario especially the children were all looking forward for our program. Her words had certainly boosted our spirit and we were even more excited to meet all the folks at Bario.

Mdm. Juana strikes me as a wonderfully jovial lady, just like all the other folks in Bario who are so warm and friendly. When we first met her at the airport, her warmth made us feel close to each other even though we had just met each other. So we started calling her auntie Joy throughout our stay in Bario.

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I wouldn’t miss the chance of taking a photo by the side of the MASwings’ Twin Otter

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The Chairman of the Bario’s school PTA was also at the airport to welcome us

Besides the warm welcome by some of the folks that we met at the airport, the second thing that drew my attention when I first stepped foot to Bario was the cooling environment of the place. The air in Bario was so fresh and the temperature is neither too cold nor too hot that I personally find it very comfortable.

After unloading all our stuff from the Twin Otter, our local Mr. Tour guide, Taiyun had helped us to load our things into his Toyota 4x4. He was a very good tour guide and I would recommend him to anyone who wishes to pay a visit to Bario.

The only means of transportations in Bario are either by motorcycles or a 4x4. This is because there are no proper tar roads in Bario, the roads that they have are all covered with unevenly sized rocks, portholes and mud. It is unlikely for them to make their own tar roads here because it is very costly to bring in the materials to the highland.

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Our transport in Bario- a Toyota 4x4 Hilux

There is a table-tennis table at the middle of their small scaled airport which I found to be pretty interesting. While waiting for the second batch of our team to arrive, we had a friendly game of ping-pong with a local kid named Abel. We had fun and lots of laughter while watching Abel play.

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A friendly game of Ping-pong with a local kid

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The Bario Airport

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The arrival of the second batch of our team

The second batch of our team arrived at 10.30 am. After loading in the rest of things that were brought over by the second batch into the 4x4, we got on to the 4x4 and had a bumpy ride into the Bario’s town. On the journey to the town, we saw padi fields, pineapple plantations as well as the beautiful jungles at the side of the road. Besides those, we rarely saw any houses or people until we reached the town. The actual distance from the airport to the town was not very far but due to the poor road conditions, the 4x4 took about 15 minutes to reach the town.

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The town area of Bario

On the way to the Kampung Bario Asal’s long house which was our first destination in Bario and also our place of lodging, there were passers-by along the road that waved and greeted us.

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That is the Bario Asal long house behind the signboard

At the long house, we were welcomed by the Kelabit elders. They were the Kelabits who had been through the hardships of war. They shared with us lots of their experiences and stories about the days when there were headhunting activities, the Second World War, the incorporation of Sarawak into Malaysia in 1963, Indonesian confrontation and also the way that the community has changed and improved over the years.

During lunch we were served with the Nasi Bario (Bario Rice) and some dishes that were prepared by the Kelabit housewives. The fragrance and sweetness of the rice made it impossible to not have second-helpings! It might sound a little exaggerated but the Bario rice was really the tastiest rice that I have ever tasted.

After the lunch, we were invited to tour around in the long house. The architecture and structure of the long house were unique, according to the dwellers of the long house; the whole house was built by the locals themselves. I noticed that at every 10 meters of the long house, there would be a fire place at the centre of the area. The fire place is where the Kelabit families prepare their meals and is also a spot where the family gathers to get some heat when the weather is cold.

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The fire place in the long house

Photos of the Kelabits’ past activities and family photos can be seen as we walk past these history-filled corridors.

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At the Bario Asal’s long house

In this approximately half an hour tour in the long house, I have noticed that most of the parts in the house were vacant. According to a Kelabits housewife who I met in the long house, most of the young people have decided to move out from Bario to town to pursuit their careers. Less than 2000 Kelabits now live in Bario and the population is decreasing yearly

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Our first program at the Bario Primary School

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At 3 pm, we had our first activity with the students of SK Bario. The children were just adorable, check out these photos.

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At the beginning of the activity, we did a round of self introductions to the students and teachers. The children have pretty amazing memory though as they could remember all our names although we only did introduce ourselves once.

It was quite normal for children to feel shy to strangers, so we did some ice-breaking activities together with the children so that we could break the divide between us.

The most interesting part of this session with the school children was when we had a quiz challenge for them. They were very enthusiastic about it. Everyone was rising up their hand wanting to answer the math, science or general knowledge questions. Goody bags from UTM were awarded to the students who managed to answer our question correctly.

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The children were sitting in a circle expressing their creativity through their drawing

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Board games sponsored by SPM were handed over to the headmistress of SK Bario, Mdm. Dora from our college principal Dr. Firdausi

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The classroom of SK Bario

After the photo session with the school children and teachers of SK Bario, we were invited to the teachers’ office for refreshment. The teachers were very kind to us; they have prepared their locally grown Bario pineapple which is one of the sweetest and juiciest pineapples in the world and also their local delicacy which is the Nasi Kelabit for us to enjoy.

There was no water and power supply on the first day due to the drought season where their reservoir had dried up. For that evening, we went to the small reservoir not far from the school to wash-up.

The small dam was built at a slope is actually the source of water for the community, non the less it is also the source of electricity for them as the water pressure stores in the dam is used to generate electricity by using the micro-hydro facility. Even though there is the micro-hydro generator but the families in Bario are still very much depending on expensively fuelled generators to get their electricity because the hydro-plant built in Bario is only able to supply electricity when there is rain that provides enough water to be stored in the dam to feed the turbine of the generator. Only the army camp and schools have 24 hours electricity supply as the authorities have spent millions of Ringgit in storing the fuel to generate the electricity for these facilities.

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In the evening, after we had our dinner, we went to the Secondary School of Bario to have a movie night with the secondary school students. The students enter the hall with very much discipline and settled down according to their class within a minute. I believe that the school teachers have done a good job in training their students. The students enjoyed the movie very much and we were pleased that they liked it.

When the movie was over, the students quickly took up their duty and got ready for supper. I am impressed by the way the students carried out their duty as it was very systematic. It was 9.30pm when the movie was over and we were informed by the school teachers that the students will normally have their supper at 9.30 pm and get back to their dormitory to rest at 9.45 pm. Without fail, the dormitories’ lights were all off at 9.45pm and the children were at their beds already.

Both the primary and secondary school children have to stay in their schools dormitory because most of their houses are situated in other more remote villages that are far from the school. These children can only return home by foot during the weekends to be with their family. The journey for them to go home will usually take not less than an hour; some even have to take routes through the jungles just to get home. Learning the life of the students here in Bario, it made me feel how fortunate I was when I was schooling as I have either my parents or the school bus to send me to school everyday. Moreover I had everything i.e. my room, meals and laundry all taken care by my mom. One of the things that made the children here special from all other students that I have met is that they have learned to be independent since they were barely 7 years old.

After the light supper and chit-chatting with the school teachers, we headed back to the long house to prepare for the activities that we had on the next day. At around 11 pm the electricity was cut-off and the night started to rain. We had our briefing and discussion for the next day’s activity done in the dark. It was quite late then when the meeting at the Rang family’s living room was over, since it was still raining and dark outside, my friends and I were quite tired so we slept over at the living room for that night and did not go back to our lodge which is at Auntie Joy’s house.

17th of June 09

After having our breakfast prepared by the Rang family, we headed out to the community hall at the town area for our first program of the day which is showcasing the EM technology to the folks of Bario who are involved in agriculture and also the official launch of our program at Bario.

On the way to the community hall, we dropped by at Dato Sri’ Idris Jala’s home in Bario. Dato Sri’ Idris Jala is one of the brilliant and successful Kelabits who was born and brought up in the Bario community and who is now the CEO of Malaysian Airlines. Dato Idris’ father was not around in the house that morning; we were welcomed by his mother. The hospitality offered by her was overwhelming even though we knocked on her door early in the morning without any early notice. She was very glad that we came all the way from the Semenanjung to visit the Kelabit’s highland; she told us about the festivals that they celebrate here in Bario annually and she extended her warmest invitation to us looking forward that we can come during the festivals so that we can witness more about their culture and also sharing the joy together with them.

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Dato Sri Idris Jala’s home in Bario

After the short visit to Dato Sri Idris Jala’s home in Bario, we headed to the community hall in town. The weather was quite cold that morning due to the downpour last night; everyone was shivering after bathing in the morning.

On the way to the community hall, we noticed all the folks have already started working at their padi fields and etc; on the contrary during the 7-9 am in central town like Kuala Lumpur, everyone will be stuck in the jam on the way to work during these hours.

We did the necessary setup such as hanging up our banners and setting up our sound system and etc when we got to the community hall. The folks slowly started to fill up the seats after 9 am and our program started at 9.30 am without any delay.

We were honored that on behalf of YB Nelson Balang Rining, who is the ADUN of Ba’kelalan, CR. John Terawe who is the councilor of the Bario community represented him to officiate our programme at Bario and also delivered his opening speech in both Malay and Kelabit Languages. A speech by our UTM Tun Dr. Ismail College’s principal AP. DR. Firdausi Razali was also delivered to explain to the folks about the objectives of our program at Bario.

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CR. John Terawe, councilor of Bario

Before entering the highlight of our program, we did a lucky draw session just to make the program more lively and interesting. The locals seemed more eager to learn about the EM technology that we were going to introduce to them.

In introducing the EM agriculture technology to the folks, we had the support from the Chemical Enginnering Pilot Plant (CEPP) of UTM, Mr Aidee Kamal bin Khamis and Dr. Firdausi Razali giving their expert explanation to the folks on applying the EM technology in their agriculture. For your information, CEPP has been actively disseminating the EM know-how in agriculture and environment for the past four years throughout Malaysia.

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Everyone was so interested in learning the EM technology

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During the demonstration of mixing the EM ingredients by Mr. Aidee, many questions were asked by the locals to get a better understanding in this technology

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Dr. Firdausi was explaining to the folks on some of the uses of the plants in enhancing the yield of their plantation

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The folks and the Lestari Bario team were getting their hands on in preparing the organic fertilizers. Through the demonstration and explanation by CEPP, many of the folks learned that there are a lot of organic materials around them that can be turned into valuable fertilizer for their plants.

Everyone enjoyed the program and I hope that the folks would be able to benefit much from the new technology that we introduce to them.

After lunch, we chatted with Auntie Joy’s mother and her neighbor at the fire place in her house. They were so excited that a young group of people like us who were willing to sit around them and to chat with them. Personally, I was more than happy that they were willing to share with us their precious lifetime experience and also some interesting facts about Bario.

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After having a few hours of rest at her house, we went out to the primary school for some friendly games with the school children, teachers and the army personnel.

The games were arranged by the primary school teachers, we had games like football, volley ball and Ping-pong. It was very enjoyable, playing football with the kids although my side was trounced by our opponents. Some of the kids really have good potential in playing football for the country though. Playing sports at highland was another sort of new experience to me as the weather was cooler and I did not sweat much as I would back in KL.

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After playing games with the children at the field, they brought me to the hill behind the secondary school where they told me that it is the spot where I can have a good view of Bario. I had a race with the kids to the hill. We ran across the field and climbed up to the hill. I felt like I was back in my school days then where I could run freely and laugh like nobody’s business. At the top of the hill, the children sat with me and enjoyed the peacefulness and great view of Bario.

Here, I also found my best pal in Bario who is the boy wearing the red t-shirt in this photo. His name is Sageng. He is a brave and friendly young lad who has been around with us for the days in Bario. He taught me a few words in Bahasa Kelabit and after the visit to the hill, he brought my friend and I to visit some other spots in Bario. Although we knew each other for only two days but he did not treat us like strangers and he told us much of the things he knows about Bario. We enjoyed his accompany in Bario very much.

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In the evening, after we had our lunch, we were invited to attend the cultural night that was specially arranged by the locals for us. It was one of the activities that I was looking forward to attend in Bario. I was overjoyed when I met the children there as I saw all of them were dressed in their colourful and unique traditional costumes and accessories.

Our UTM ‘dancers’ were also very much excited to present their Tarian Zapplin to the folks, they were also dressed in the traditional Baju Melayu and Baju Kurung for the guys and girls respectively.

The show started with the performance of traditional warrior dance by the school children of SK Bario. They were very good and I believe that the many requests from other visitors to see them perform are a testament to their abilities. The music was so tempting that I wanted to join them in their dance! The crowd, especially us from UTM was all applauding and cheering for them.

After the first two performances by the SK Bario students, it was our turn then to do UTM proud by doing the Johore Traditional Malay Dance- Tarian Zapplin. Our dancers did a good job as well and the dance was successfully presented without anyone forgetting the steps.

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Cool!

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It was equally impressive when the Bario Secondary school’s students did their performance. In their first dance which is a traditional local dance, the students amazed us with their strength and uniqueness of the dance.

The second performance completely took us by surprise as they did a modern cowboy dance along to a mandarin song. The students were all dressed like cowboys with blue jeans and red scarf. They were so adorable and the choreography was so modern and lively that we were all captivated by their dance. A big applause goes out to both the SK Bario and SMK Bario students as well as their teachers for making it such an unforgettable event for us.

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That night got even more interesting when the Kelabits housewives lined-up to perform their dance to us. The housewives were dressed in their costumes and their hands were carrying the fans made of feather. It was a rather slow and graceful dance that we enjoyed all the same.

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Our professors were also invited to join Cikgu Dora to perform the cultural dance. We did get to see some of Dr. Firdausi’s hidden talents in doing Taichi when he was performing the dance.

After all the performances, we were each presented souvenirs by the representative of the Bario and also Cikgu Dora. Each of us was given a Bane Kaboh (a bead necklace) and Bane for the men and women respectively. We also got a packet of the famous Bario Rice each from the SK Bario as a souvenir to bring home.

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A photo of Auntie Joy’s mother and me

On the 18th of June 09, we had the morning free, so Taiyun brought us to visit few of the interesting places in Bario. First, we went to the pineapple farm, we only took some photos there. There were a lot of sweet and ripe Bario pineapples that were right in front of our eyes but unfortunately the owner of the pineapples was not around so we were not able to sample those delicious looking pineapples but towards the end of our trip, we managed to buy a few home to try.

The army camp is just next to the pineapple farm that we visited. We were invited to pay a visit to the army camp then. In the army camp, a ranger told us about the mesmerizing history of the camp. The camp was set-up during the Indonesian Confrontation and since then a platoon of the army is deployed here to safeguard the border of our country and also the security of the area.

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At the entrance of the Bario Army Camp

After the short visit to their camp, the armies then volunteered to escort us to trek to the salt spring. They got on to the 4X4 with us and we headed off along a narrow and rough track that took us about 40 minutes and then we reached the jungle at Pa’ Umor where we had to trek.

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We walked past the turn-off to the Indonesian border and arrived at the salt spring after another half and hour of trekking.

One of the army personnel explained to us that there are many versions of the origins of the salt spring. He told us one of them was that some years ago when the Kelabits who dug a well here noticed that there was salt crystallized on the wall of the well, and then they started to use the water here to produce salt for their daily use. After sometime, the Kelabits commercialized the salt from the well and selling it to the outside world. It is believed that the salt processed from the water of the salt spring contains high percentage of iodine that it can reduce the risk of Goiter for those who consume it.

Every week, by turns, one family gets the chance to make salt here. The family has to collect firewood from the surrounding and store it at a hut by the spring. Salt water is withdrawn from the well by buckets and poured into large cooking pots. The pots of salt water are then placed on the fire and left there till the water has completely evaporated and leaving the salt behind. The salt is then left to be dried in the hut by the heat of the burning firewood. Eventually when the salt is completely dry, the salt is then wrapped with a leaf into a tube and it is sealed with twines.

When we were at the salt spring, we met a family that was preparing to head back home after a week of making their salt here. They had been staying at the hut for the whole week to make the salt. We managed to get a good deal from them and it was good business for them as each of us bought at least 2 to 3 tubes of the salt from them.

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The army personnel taught us some survival skill that they are equipped with when we were on our way return from the salt spring.

For lunch, we stopped by at a family who stays in Pa’ Umor.

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The lady was preparing the delicious Bario pineapples for us

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You will ask for more of this pineapple

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In the afternoon, we were all very tired after trekking to the salt spring but we were still very much excited for our following activity at the Secondary School of Bario.

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The dormitory of the secondary school students

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The students were walking to the hall

The Secondary School of Bario only provides the early part of the secondary education which is from form 1 to 3 to the local youth. The whole secondary school has only about 160 students. The local adolescences will normally have to enroll to secondary schools in central towns like Miri to complete their secondary education.

The first activity that we had for the students was a forum on further education. The objective of the forum was to give the students an idea of pursuing their tertiary education in the future and also to create awareness in them towards the importance of education in their future. The students seemed very interested towards our topic, and most of them already have the ambition of getting into a university to further their education in the future.

After the forum, we did a quiz challenge for the students like what we did at the primary school two days ago. Indeed the questions that we asked here were much more challenging than those being asked in the primary school. IQ questions and questions related to their PMR subjects that we thought were tough were being used in our quiz challenge. The students did not disappoint us at all and the respond from them was overwhelming which the students managed to answer all our questions correctly and confidently.

Later, we asked for volunteers from the students to introduce him or herself to us in English as we wanted to tell the students about the importance of languages in the working world that requires good communication skills. We did not wait long and a girl who is a prefect bravely put up her hand and volunteered herself. She talked about her ambition, hobby and her family. Her confidence won all of our applause.

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Smile on the face of a student who won himself a gift from us in the quiz challenge

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A form 1 student who was explaining to the others on how he answered the IQ question

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The SMK Bario’s prefect board

Here are some of the photos that I snap in that evening.

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The scenery of Bario

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The secondary school of Bario

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A Kelabit woman heads home after a long day work at the Padi field

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The garden besides the long house

We did not have our dinner at the usual time as the time we had on the last two days in Bario as we were going to have a barbeque party later at auntie Joy’s house.

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Before we headed on back to Miri on the next morning, we had a movie night with the primary school students at their school hall.

The children were not much interested in the movie as they were all gathered around us to chat with us. I miss them a lot!

After the movie, I exchanged contact with the school teachers so that we can always keep in touch.

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Aren’t they just adorable?

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Hooray! It was time for barbeque. We were served with all types of delicious local foods

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Teachers of SK Bario and UTM students were having fun times playing games at the barbeque party

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The party ended about 1 am and we headed back to our tents to sleep

19th of June 09, our program Lestari Bario has finally come to an end and it was time for us to say good bye to the folks at Bario.

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Before we left the long house, we took a group a picture in the long house at Bario Asal

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Friendship forever!

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Everyone was leaving the long house with a heavy heart

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At the airports, we coincidentally met with the MASwings officers who have just landed to Bario. Here is a photo of us with Auntie Joy and the officers of MASwings.

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Lucky me that I was allowed to feel the pilot seat at the Twin Otters’ cockpit.

Our plane took off at 9.30 am and it was really good bye to Bario for us.

When we got back to Miri, we spent a few days visiting all the interesting places here. We have got a better hotel rooms this time at the Miri town.

On the 19th, we went for bowling and movie in the evening. On the following day, we charted a school bus and headed to the famous Gua Niah National Park. We knew that it would be quite tiring after trekking into the Niah Caves, so we decided to rent a chalet at the national park so that we would have a place to rest in the evening and so we did not have to rush back to Miri then. The rental charge for the chalet was quite reasonable and the place was indeed comfortable.

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The chalet at Gua Niah National Park

We started our journey from our chalet at about 2 pm, we were reminded to bring our own touch lights as it would be very dark in the caves.

We walk through the bushes and finally we reached a cave, I thought we were already at the Niah Cave but when I saw the signboard, we were only at the trader’s cave. Niah Cave was still few kilometers away.

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The Traders’ Cave

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The small hut for the visitors to rest their legs

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It took us around 3 hours to explore the whole Niah Cave, we managed to see the places where the bird nest collectors used to collect the bird nest and also most importantly we got to see the ancient paintings on the wall of the Painting Cave.

After the trip, I wouldn’t agree less that Niah Cave is a must visit spot for those Mother Nature lovers as at you would be able to enjoy the breathtaking view of Mother Nature in her full splendour!

On the 21st June 09, we were back in Miri town again. It was a day for shopping. First, we went to the Rong Reng Heritage Store where we bought lots of the local handicrafts as souvenirs for our friends and family. We did a comparison on the prices of the items that they sell in Rong Reng with other shops in Miri and we found that Rong Reng offers the best bargain for their items. For tourists who wish to visit Miri, I am sure this is something that you might want to take note.

Next stop was the Miri Handicraft Centre, they have a variety of handicrafts here as well but we couldn’t get any better bargain here compare to Rong Reng. Our shopping spree then went on to the wet market in Miri Town; we got all the famous local products here such as the salted fish, black pepper and the highland rice.

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It was whole day of shopping and at the end of the day we ended up spending our night at the Parkson shopping complex playing bowling and pool.

On the 22nd of June 09, 8.00 am, we were back to the Miri Ariport and waiting for departure to Kuching. Everyone had so much fun in Sarawak and we wished that we could stay longer.

On the flight from Miri to Kuching, we were served by a very friendly and nice steward whom we would remember with fondness. His name is Maryazlan. The seats were almost full and he was extremely busy but I could see that he did his best in serving all the passengers equally well with a smile. Another stewardess named Swee Peng did an equally good job in serving the passengers as well. However, this should not have surprised me as the MAS cabin crew has always been recognized as among the best !

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Photo of me, Maryazlan and Swee Peng

50 minutes passed and we landed in Kuching International Airport. At the airport, we still managed to do some shopping and we bought the famous Sarawak Layer Cake from the airport before departing back to Senai.

On the flight from Kuching to Senai, we were served with lunch. Unfortunately, the green colour soap-like cookie was not in the menu. However, all in all the lunch was still warm and tasty. Time passed pretty fast and we reached Senai before we even realized it.

It was indeed a pleasant and memorable to experience being passengers on MAS. Once more, I cannot say enough thanks to MAS for it’s kind support on our project and also for giving us the opportunity to have this wonderful once in a lifetime experience.

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Posted in And Others Told Us, on Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Tags: Bario, Kuching, Sarawak, MD

By: Boyd McCleary, British High Commissioner (Guest Blogger)

Article captured from http://ukinmalaysia.fco.gov.uk/en/working-with-malaysia/stories-high-commission/hc-bario

PIX 1 - Aerial view of Bario .jpg

Aerial view of Bario

PIX 2 - A view of the Kelabit Highlands .jpg

A view of the Kelabit Highlands

PIX 3 - Gems Lodge at Bario.jpg

`Gem's Lodge' at Bario

PIX 4 - Inside the twin otter plane.jpg 

Inside the twin otter plane

PIX 5 - Solar panels at Bario village.jpg 

Solar panels at Bario village

One of the most fascinating books I have read since coming to Malaysia is "The World Within" by Tom Harrisson.  It tells of the year Harrisson spent in a long-house in Bario, recruiting the locals to rise up against the Japanese occupying forces, when the Allies landed.  Bario is the place where the renowned Bario rice is grown.  But where exactly is it?  I found out recently, when I spent a couple of days there in the course of a visit to Sarawak.  When I told a "Star" reporter about my impressions, he invited me to write them down, as he thought they might be of wider interest.  So here goes.

The first thing to note about Bario is that it is not served by any road.  So the only way to get there is on foot (a two month walk from Miri), by river (a couple of weeks up from Marudi) or by air.  I chose the last option and took an ancient, but very reliable Twin Otter (designed and built in Canada for bush flying) from Miri.  On check-in I was surprised to discover that not only my baggage had to be weighed, but also me.  This was so that they could judge how much weight was still available for cargo.  Because the rear half of the aircraft was stuffed with cardboard boxes bringing everything conceivable up to Bario.

At 6'5", I had a bit of difficulty squeezing in.  But they gave me the front row and I managed to stretch my legs into the gap between the pilot and co-pilot.  We stopped off in Marudi and had to spend a while there waiting for the cloud to clear.  But luckily we met up with Lucy, a school principal in Miri, who was to be one of our hosts and we started to learn about what lay in store.  When we eventually did get off the ground, Lucy was also able to talk us through some of the sights on the way, in particular the twin peaks of Batu Lawi which we saw off to the left.  The cloud cover had lifted and we had good views as we came in to land on what seemed to be a remarkably small strip of concrete, a postage stamp in the centre of a big valley, surrounded by high mountains, some of them in Indonesian Kalimantan.

Bario sits at around 3,000 feet.  The Kelabit have lived there for thousands of years.  It is not that many generations ago that they were head-hunters, but for many years they have practised settled agriculture, first using slash and burn methods to grow their rice and other crops, but now using padi, as they have learned the techniques of irrigation.  The rice is still sweet and fragrant.  Sadly, however, there are no longer enough people in the community to look after it and many of the fields are falling into disrepair.  Less than 2,000 Kelabit now live in Bario, the rest of the population of 6,000 having moved into the bigger towns and cities of Sarawak and West Malaysia.

Bario Airport is charming.  We were greeted personally at the bottom of the aircraft steps by a lovely lady who was in charge of virtually everything, as far as I could see. She escorted me to a waiting line of community representatives, many of them ladies with beautiful beaded skull-caps (handed down apparently from generation to generation), who presented me with a bead necklace and invited me to drink the juice from a locally grown pineapple.  It turns out that Bario produces some of the sweetest and best pineapples in the world, for reasons which are not quite clear to agro-science.  I ended up bringing a box-load home!

One of the welcoming party was Gerawat Gala, President of the Kelabit Association, who had flown in specially from Kuching (where he is a high-powered lawyer with Zaid Ibrahim) to look after me.  It's been some time since a British High Commissioner visited!  Gerawat introduced me to the community elders, including Henry, the father of Idris Jala, CEO of Malaysian Airlines, who was born and brought up in the community and made his way into the big wide world via Shell, who have their Asia-Pacific Headquarters in Miri.  When I had met Idris in KL a few months ago, he had encouraged me warmly to visit his home community and now it was happening.

One of the amazing things about Bario is the number of brilliant people the valley has produced!  Businessmen, academics, doctors, lawyers and teachers!  And yet until 1945 there was no school in the community and no-one had ever had any chance to study.  Tom Harrisson helped change all that.  After the war, he stayed on in Bario and built the first primary school, subsequently followed by a middle school, which takes the children up to 16, after which they have to move down to Marudi or Miri, where they board.  Incidentally Harrisson later became Curator of the Sarawak Museum in Kuching, one of the best small museums in the region.

My first engagement in Bario was lunch at Lucy’s Home Stay.  This was an opportunity to talk to the community elders.  And boy can they talk!  They talked about the days of the White Rajas, Harrisson and the Second World War (a second-hand memory now for almost everyone), the incorporation of Sarawak into Malaysia in 1963 (Bario voted against; they were quite happy with British rule), the Confrontation (Bario was one of the bases for Commonwealth troops) and the way the community had changed over the years, as more and more young people had left.

Then we headed off for a tour of the community, which consists of a few long-houses and increasing numbers of individual dwellings, all interspersed with rice fields.  The town centre is pretty modest and the only building with a sign outside is the e-Bario, a pilot project run my UNIMAS to bring the internet into rural areas.  We visited the primary school, where the children put on an impressive show of local dance, and the middle school, where Gerawat explained what it had been like for him as one of the first pupils to move through and on to university. Between the schools is the site for a new community hall, which Shell are helping to fund.

Above is a hill, from where you can get the best view of Bario. Sitting there for a few moments gave a real sense of peace and well-being.  The only disturbance is the distant sound of bulldozers, pushing a logging trail toward Bario, a trail which could change the life of the community for good. But visible too is land now gazette as a new state national park, Pulong Tau, shaped like a violin.  There are apparently plans afoot to extend the width of the violin and take the park across the border into Kalimantan, as part of the ambitious and highly important Heart of Borneo project, the aim of which is to create a protected zone covering 200,000 square km of Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei, an area nearly the size of the UK.

Near the top of the hill is a small museum, housed in one simple room, which tells Bario’s story through pictures and artifacts.  One thing that caught my attention was a set of photographs and sketches describing the work by a group of UK universities, including my own alma mater Queen’s Belfast, in mapping the stone megaliths which lie in the hills surrounding the settlement.  Megaliths which, when dated, may help the Kelabit demonstrate the extent of territory in which they held sway.

In the afternoon Gerawat suggests that we trek to the salt spring. So we switch into hiking gear and head off along a narrow winding track that takes us past some rice fields (now cared for by Indonesian labourers), past a tiny church (virtually the whole Kelabit community are Christian), across the river and through the site of the old long-house, which was abandoned because of flooding and now stands empty.  The timber was taken to re-build at a new site.

Nearby we are shown the place where a Royal Navy Whirlwind helicopter came down during  Confrontation.  The helicopters were used to ferry troops – SAS, Gurkhas, Royal Green Jackets (the villagers remember the individual regiments!) – to the points along the border where Indonesian irregulars came across.  Gerawat remembers Confrontation as an exciting time for him as a boy, who was roped in by the soldiers to carry supplies and ammunition,  One account of Bario tells also of the rowdy life-style of the squaddies, who created a different impression of the white man from that of the Australian missionaries, who had come a few years earlier.

We walk past the turn-off to the Indonesian border and arrive soon at the salt spring.  Gerawat explains that some years ago a hunter picked up a blowpipe dart that had missed its target.  When he licked the dart to clean it, he noticed a salty taste and discovered a source of salty water.  The community, who had till then had to trade for salt with the outside world, decided to use the spring to create their own local supply.  So they built a small dam, now a well surrounded by concrete, and every week one family gets the chance to make salt.  But how? What happens is that the family whose turn it is collects firewood from the surrounding area (a huge task, as they have to keep two fires lit for the full week) and stores this in the make-shift hut by the spring.  Salt water is gathered in a bucket and poured into large cooking pots, which are then placed on the fires and left there till all the water has evaporated, leaving the salt in the bottom. This salt is taken and decanted into bamboo tubes (also pre-prepared) and left to dry in the warm environment of the hut (where the temperature is stifling and we are all sweating profusely).  When dry, these tubes are sealed up and wrapped in a leaf and tied off with natural twine.

Local hospitality is such that I was given one of these tubes.  I hesitate to accept given the amount of time, energy and sweat it has cost, but Gerawat tells me it would be rude to refuse.  I thank the family and wish them well for the rest of their week’s hard labour. And we set off home. The return journey is quicker than the outward leg, as Gerawat has arranged for us to be picked up by a local boatman, who takes us back along the river to our starting point.

Home for the night is “Gem's Lodge”, a Home Stay house owned by Gerawat (he plans to retire there) and managed by members of his family.  After changing out of our hiking gear, we enjoy a delicious cold beer on the terrace overlooking the river. Then there is a wonderful supper for the whole village, cooked communally, after which a cultural evening is promised.  I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.  But it turned out to be a mixture of song and dance involving everyone.  The old ladies led the singing, as they were the ones who knew the words, many of them in an older form of Kelabit which the younger people didn’t fully understand.

One of the high points was the the Kelabit “Warrior Dance”, performed initially by a young man from the long-house, wearing a goat skin adorned with feathers and wielding a parang and wooden shield.  It looked graceful when he did it.  But it then transpired that all honoured guests had to follow suit.  Gerawat did a good job (he must have done this many times before), but then it was my turn!  I hope I managed to make not big a fool of myself.  And I could then relax while others did their best.  Graceful was no longer the most appropriate adjective to describe their antics. Among the guests were two young Brits.  The first is an anthropology student doing research into long-houses.  He is a nephew of the Earl of Cranbrook, who worked with Tom Harrisson and whose article on the Borneo pygmy elephant I have just read in the Journal of the Sarawak Museum.  The other is a graduate in ecology, who is setting up a business to bring students and others into Sabah and Sarawak for study trips and eco-tourism.  He has been in Bario and surroundings for the last few days looking out suitable trails.

The evening concluded with a spirited conga, danced by all present.  Fortunately there are no photographs.  But the rhythm of the song was captivating and the sense of community overwhelming.
Next morning, after a relaxed breakfast on the terrace, we head off on another short trek, this time to the small reservoir, which is the source of water for the community.  The water flows by gravity-feed and is channeled through a narrow plastic pipe laid by the villagers.  The only outside help they needed was a gift of cement made by the Chairman of Shell, who visited Bario and asked what he could do to help.  Cement costs RM250 per bag up in the highlands (transported in by Twin Otter) compared with RM 20 per bag in Miri!

On the way Gerawat tells us of how they built the concrete walls to hold in the water of the reservoir, which has been a real success.  He also recounts the story of the micro-hydro facility, which was conceived a few years ago as a source of electricity for the community.  After months of building and millions of ringgits of expenditure, it ran for about 45 minutes and then gave up the ghost.  The level in the dam was simply not high enough to provide the water to feed the turbine.  So the village still survives today on expensively fuelled generators and of course on candle power. As we travel there and back Gerawat talks about his time in the village as a boy.  He points out a couple of branches set at an odd angle and explains that these are a porcupine trap.  He still knows how to set one.  He knows the trees, learned how to use a blowpipe, knows every path for miles around and could find his way home from anywhere, simply by orienting himself to the hills and rivers.  But the boys in the village today have lost many of these skills.  Whereas in the past everyone learned to hunt and there were maybe twenty hunters in each long-house, today there are only two or three and they no longer venture as far afield.

These are not the only skills which are being lost.  The Kelabit language too is under pressure.  Lucy had explained to me the night before that there is no proper orthography.  Nor is there a Kelabit dictionary.  When the missionaries came, they translated the bible into Lun Bawang, but not into Kelabit (except strangely for the Book of Romans!). And, as the old people disappear, there is a real risk of the language dying out with them.

When we get back to “Gem’s Lodge” there is just time to pack and make ready for departure.  We are driven to the airport and as we sit down with the local headman and others gathered to see us off, I wonder about what the community will feel like if I come back in a few years’ time.  Will there be anyone left living in long-houses?  Will there be anyone who still knows how to set a porcupine trap or use a blowpipe?  Will the children of the old ladies know (or understand) the words of the songs?  How many of the next generation will be prepared to spend a week making salt? Will the new logging road mean not only cheaper cement, but also more visitors, more pollution and less of a sense of community?  I hope not.

As we take off in our Twin Otter I feel privileged to have seen Bario as it is today.  A special place with some very special people. I plan to return.

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